Dry Wall Fiberglass joint tape
Drywall joint tape is made of fiberglass
It’s the most ideal material for cracks repairing on the drywall, and joints strengthening on the ceilings, gypsum boards, etc.
Comparing to the paper tape which is widely used on the market, it’s much easier to use, no bubbles or blisters, and can be
applied directly to the wall surface without pre-embedding required. Its tensile strength is up to 400N/50mm which is much stronger than paper tape. Furthermore, it’s non-organic, mold-resistant, long durability, which prevents the possible break that
happens to paper tape after 3-5 years.
This fiberglass joint tape has become very popular in construction and decoration for many years.
Re width and length, we can produce as per your requirement. We wl make the fiberglass drywall tape white, blue, yellow, and different widths according to your requirement.
Matt Density: Random
Tape Identification: Pale yellow color or white
Moisture Content: 0.5%
Water resistance, flexibility, softness
Resistance to aging and attack from the breakdown
Crack resistance, alkali resistance
With good cohesion
Easy to be operated
The above technical dates are standard for our company. Of course, we can produce as per your requirement. First, tell us your requirement or where you will use the products, then we will make samples and send you by courier. Please comment on /confirm the samples we send. We will try out best to satisfy your need. And of course, our fiberglass price is reasonable.
Tips to apply
Repair cracks, patch holes drywall finishing-fast
Wall must be clean and dry.
Center and apply tape over the length of the joint and pressing firmly
Apply a generous first coat of compound over the tape, making sure to completely fill the joint crevice. When the joint has been completely filled, wipe off any excess compound with the drywall knife leaving enough to cover the tape
Let dry completely, then sand slightly
Apply sufficient thin finishing coats to produce a smooth wall surface
Special care must be taken to assure proper compound penetration of all joints.
This may result in the slight build-up of compounds that will require an increased amount of edge feathering.
Packing ,Loading, and Delivery:
Mat will be loaded into container in factory, then be delivered to the seaport, finally be shipped to customers port by ships/vessels. Commonly we assure you we can make delivery two weeks on getting your confirmed
We are a fiberglass factory majored in fiberglass/poly fiber since 2006, having many experiences in this line. You can trust us for our good service, profession, prompt delivery, and best price. We can offer any help at any time. If you have any questions/need, please contact us.
Before you put your repaired part back into service, you need to inspect your repair. Use the coin tap method to inspect the repair after it has fully cured. The entire structure should resonate with the same solid sound. For more peace—of—mind or more critical parts, non—destructive load testing can also be implemented at this stage. This consists of stressing the part up to its expected service limit, but not beyond. If the part fails prematurely, even if the failure occurs away from your repair, it should be discarded. For more critical structures, a testing laboratory or specialized equipment may be necessary before sign—off.
If your part passes its inspection, you’re ready to proceed with the cosmetic repair.
A part’s outer cosmetic finish is designed to hide and protect the structural reinforcement below, while also being aesthetically pleasing. It is this surface that most people will look at and judge the whole structure. Even slight damage like scratches and gouges will mar the finished appearance. Worse, these often create a direct path into the structural layers, causing even larger problems. Cosmetic blisters are a problem which, left untreated, can turn entire boat hulls into sponges.
The cosmetic composite repair sequence is similar to the structural sequence, but fairing and filling compounds and/or gel coat replace the reinforcing material. Surface preparation is still the most important aspect of a long—lasting repair. Finish sanding and polishing present an additional step, but time invested in that step can result in a truly professional composite repair. Many people fear tackling cosmetic work because they assume it requires expensive spray equipment for satisfactory results. While equipment is important, proper material selection is the key to positive results.
In this section, we will provide guidelines for cosmetic composite repairs, including fiberglass crack repair, fiberglass gel coat repair, and composite repair finishing. This will be broken down into 5 steps, which are similar to those required for structural repairs:
1. Inspect, Measure, and Identify.
2. Removing damaged material and preparing the surface
3. Mix and apply filler
4. Polish the repair area
Now let’s dive into each of these in more detail.
Inspection of cosmetic damage is just as important as it is with structural damage. There are four main categories for cosmetic composite damage, and you may find one or all of these types of damage depending on what your part has been through. The categories are as follows:
•Gouge A gouge is a long, deep depression in the surface, severe enough to require filler and a surface coat for repair. Gouges are typically caused by rough handling, glancing impacts, or improper padding.
•Blisters Blisters are bulges appearing on the surface of a part. It is typically caused by liquid or gas that has gotten into the substrate, forcing the skin away from the glass.
•Scratches Scratches are similar to a gouge, but not deep enough to require filler. Scratches are typically able to be repaired without the need for filler.
•Crazing Craze cracks are hairline fractures that do not go through the thickness of the part, sometimes they do not even go through the thickness of the surface coat. Crazing is typically caused by either over-stressing of the part, thermal issues, or stress between or across the layers.
Once you understand what type of damage you have, we recommend that you use a contrasting marker to outline the boundary of the damage. Note that gouges often leave undercut areas of unsupported gel coat which at first will appear to be fine. However, if you press on them with a blunt tool, they will easily crack away. It is critical that all damaged areas are fully identified so they can be prepared correctly in the next procedure. Once you have your areas identified and marked, determine the approximate surface area that requires repair.
For both gouges and blisters, you will need to be sure that unsupported surface material is removed. As mentioned previously, this can be accomplished by pressing on them with a blunt tool. Once unsupported material has been removed, wipe the surface with acetone and a rag to remove any wax, oil or grease which might contaminate the repair.
When the surface has dried, tape off the area surrounding the damage. This will keep sanding scratches to non—damaged areas to a minimum. Proceed by chipping out all loose material with a utility knife and then use 40—grit sandpaper to bevel the edges to a taper. Even thin cracks will have to be "opened up" before material can be added to fill them. Blisters will have to be completely exposed at this time. While you are expanding the damaged area, we ensure that the remaining laminate is solid and dry. If the laminate is not solid and dry, you may have additional structural repairs to complete prior to finishing your cosmetic repair.
After you’ve removed the damaged material and opened up the cracks, use medium-grit sandpaper to sand slightly into the surrounding area. This will give you the ability to feather your repair into the undamaged surface. After you’ve finished sanding the surface, wipe down the surface with acetone one final time to remove dust and anything else that may disrupt adhesion.
Shallow scratches can be directly filled with a color-matched gel-coat rather than a filling compound. Be sure that you match your gel coat to a sanded and polished portion of the original, rather than the overall faded color. Your repair may stand out at first, but everything will fade to the same color in about a month. When using a gel coat to fill a scratch, use a small brush to dab in the gel coat. Be sure it is higher than the surrounding surface so that it can be sanded flush. Spray a light coat of PVA over the repair for a tack-free, sandable cure.
Deeper gouges will require structural repair putty to replace the missing material before the finish coat of gel coat is applied. Resin mixed with 1/32 inch milled glass fibers is an excellent structural putty. We also offer a variety of both polyester and epoxy—based fairing and filling compounds. Use a squeegee to spread your selected filler into the bottom of the gouge. Keep this filler slightly below the surrounding surface if the gel coat is the intended topcoat. If painting, the filler can be level with the surface since paint adds little thickness. When filling blisters, such as in a fiberglass boat hull repair, be sure to use vinyl ester resin with your milled glass fibers to make your putty. This will add additional corrosion protection to these weakened areas.
If your cosmetic repair is following a structural repair, it may be necessary to level the structural patch with the solid laminate. Both grinding and filling may be necessary to accomplish this. Grind all high spots until they are flush with the rest of the surface unless this will compromise the structural strength of the patch. Use filler to level any low spots. If grinding cannot take place for structural reasons, fillers can be mildly added to smooth irregularities and sanded to a smooth feather, but the patch will then always be visible. For marine repairs, use the 1/32 inch milled glass putty filler as described previously. Other structures can usually be filled with standard fillers or by mixing talc and a resin unless otherwise specified. Continue adding filler and sanding until the surface is perfectly flush.
Epoxy repairs are quite stable once they are cured, but polyester repairs should be heated slightly before final finishing. Polyester resin in the repair patch and in standard body filler often continues to shrink for some time when exposed to heat. This can be avoided if you use one of our non—shrink polyester fillers, but otherwise, simply place the project out in the sun for a few days or set up a heat lamp. If a lamp is used, however, don’t place the part too close or leave it for too long. You are trying to "force" the filler to shrink prior to final sanding and don’t want to distort your part. Once you’ve sanded to the perfect contour, your part is then stabilized against future heart problems.