Fiberglass joint tape
Fiberglass joint tape is made by cutting 45~50g/m2 fiberglass tissue into certain width, which is a special product used as joint tape on the wall crack or gypsum board connections. The size of this fiberglass joint tape is usually 50mm x 75m/roll; and we can produce according to your special requirement on width and length, of course.
This fiberglass joint tape will not make bubbles under construction, and it is well compatible with many types of wall and ceiling materials, such as coatings and gypsum board, therefore it is an ideal material to replace paper joint tape. It is well known that fiberglass is fire-resistant, mold-resistant, and indoor environment-friendly without any toxic chemical odor or granule release. Our fiberglass tissue tape has achieved the standard of mildew-proof ASTM D3273, with a mildew-proof grade of 10. In addition, the tensile strength of fiberglass joint tape is higher by 70%~80% than paper joint tape.
This fiberglass joint tape has become very popular in construction and decoration for many years. When you use this fiberglass joint tissue, the wall or gypsum ceiling becomes flat and smooth at wall crack or gypsum board joints; and you use less coating materials, saving cost and polishing time with easy construction.
Matt Density: Random
Tape Identification: Pale yellow color or white
Moisture Content: 0.5%
Length: 75m or as per request
Fiberglass mesh drywall tape comes in rolls just as paper tape does, but unlike paper tape, is usually self-adhesive and can be applied directly to a seam without an undercoat of joint compound. It is more pliable than paper tape, however, and hairline cracks can develop unless you coat fiberglass tape with a setting-type joint compound or hot mud. The limited working time and difficulty of sanding hot mud may present challenges for the amateur drywall finisher. When applied correctly, though, fiberglass tape makes a stronger joint that is less likely to develop defects than one finished with paper tape in your home drywall project.
Unroll enough fiberglass mesh tape to cover a flat seam you're finishing and cut it from the roll with a utility knife. Starting at one end of the seam, press the tape against the drywall so it straddles the joint and lays flat against the wall.
Mix a quantity of hot mud that you'll be able to use in 20 minutes to an hour, depending on the time it takes for the mud to set. Check the specifications on the container if you aren't sure how long this is. Once the mud stiffens, it is no longer spreadable, and you'll have to discard whatever you haven't used.
Hold one end of the tape against the wall with one hand while you spread mud over it with a 4- to 6-inch drywall knife, moving the knife along the tape away from your hand. If you don't hold the tape, the knife can move it, and it is difficult to reposition the tape once it has a layer of mud on it.
Continue spreading mud along the length of the tape, releasing the end when you have covered about a foot of the seam. Scrape the mudflat when the seam is covered, being careful not to catch the corner of the blade on the mesh and pulling the tape away from the wall.
Let the mud harden, then sand down any bulges with 120-grit sandpaper. Hot mud doesn't sand easily, so it's best if your scraping doesn't produce bulges in the first place. When the seam is flat, apply two or three top coats of regular drying-type mud, scraping each coat flat with a progressively wider knife so the seam gradually feathers into the wall. Apply each coat after the previous coat dries.
Use a similar procedure to cover an inside corner. Fold the tape in half along its length and, starting at one end of the seam, press one half to the wall on one side of the corner. Unfold the tape in 4-foot increments and press the other half to the other wall. Work in this way until you reach the other end of the seam. Coat with hot mud, then finish with regular joint compound.
When you install drywall panels in a room, you'll encounter butted joints and seams. You will also come across inside and outside corners, but it's not recommended that you use mesh tape on these. To cover seams and butted joints, roughly center the mesh tape over the cracks in the drywall as you go.
( NJEFG UniTape) This is best choice for you.
Pull out about 12 inches of the mesh tape. Starting at one end of the wall, center the tape over the drywall seam and press it firmly against the wall with your hand.
Grab a 4- to 6-inch joint knife with one hand while holding the roll of mesh in the other. Press the end of the knife at a 45- to 35-degree angle against the mesh on the wall to hold it in place.
Pull the roll of mesh tape back to unwind a 3- to 4-foot span while the joint knife holds the already attached mesh in place. Hold the unwound tape mesh up to the wall so it is centered over the drywall seam.
Slide the joint knife over the pulled-out portion of mesh tape to secure it over the drywall seam. Keep the tape centered over the drywall seam as you press it into place.
Stop sliding the joint knife once the 3 to 4 feet of mesh tape is attached to the wall. Hold the laid-out mesh tape in place with the joint knife again. Pull out another 3 to 4 feet of tape from the roll and follow with the joint knife.
Stop a run of mesh tape by using the joint knife edge to cut the tape. Hold the joint knife at a 90-degree angle from the wall and pull the tape back across the straight edge to cut the tape. Continue your next run following the same steps.